Wild Buffalo of the Northern Territory, Australia

Story 6 LOCKING HORNS WITH EL TORO

During a possum-catching trip near Kakadu National Park with a team of blokes, I needed some time by myself to unwind and relax by the creek that flowed beyond our rough campsite. However, this tranquil sojourn ended up pumping my adrenaline to maximum.

It was mid morning, and warming up fast. I’d not long woken in my cozy canvas swag after catching Rock Ringtail possums (Petropseudes dahli) during the night. I was on a short working break from my research work for CSIRO in Canberra, to hunt down and catch wild possums for the Territory Wildlife Park in Northern Australia for a new public display. My role was to train their staff in my unique method for capturing possums. These possums shun traps so after trying an array of unsuccessful methods I had devised a new way to catch them. The adrenaline filled nights of stalking and running down possums were one aspect of this trip but I also had the stressful responsibility of the team’s safety. Abandoned mine shafts and getting lost were the main hazards. The nights were inky pitch black, this was country I didn’t know and unless I kept my wits and concentrated on my continuous landmark configurations of rocks, trees, bushes and logs as we walked through the bush, I could very easily cause us all to become dangerously lost. Late one night a few years before, in the remote Kimberley, after taking behavioral observations of Scaly-tailed possums (Wyulda squamicaudata) with my two volunteers, I was leading us back to our campsite and I became distracted with a conversation we were having and my concentration was lost for my marks. All of a sudden we were lost. We had been helicoptered into the site and the rugged dissected sandstone terrain stretched out for hundreds of kilometers in three directions and spanned about thirty clicks to the remote coast. The pilot wasn’t due to pick us up for over a week at that stage and the land was all roughly the same height with no knolls or mountains. Becoming lost out there could easily mean losing our lives. Luckily I had catastrophied just about everything beforehand and I had a plan for this very moment. When backtracking failed we halted and I pulled out of my backpack the heavy radio-tracking receiver I carried for this very occasion. We had radio-collars on six possums and I had located their various den sites during the day so we could wait on nearby rocks to observe them at night. Tuning in to a spare radio-collar I had stashed at camp, we then followed the blipping sounds until we alighted into familiar terrain.

Back amongst the dodgy mineshafts, I didn’t have a receiver. One particularly large sandstone rock outcrop a few acres across was one site that was a long way from the vehicles so I was cautious enough to tie some pink flagging tape to a tree. That marker actually saved my arse.  A fair while later when I was leading the men back, I felt that initial, small sharp knot of black panic. Were these rocks familiar or did I just imagine it? Just when I thought I’d really stuffed up and become disorientated, the bright pink strip materialized, boom, right in front of me.  My marker told me the point where I needed to turn left 90 degrees and head north from those rocks to get back to where the 4WDs sat in the scrub waiting.

The adrenaline during the night was fuelled from the point of finding multiple red spots of eye shine in trees away from the nearby rocks. The men stayed still and quiet so as not to spook the possums while I crept up silently, heart thumping, towards them, positioning myself between them and the nearby rocks. I’d leave enough space for them to make a run for it and wait. Then when they did, I’d run a bit faster and leap carefully onto them and swiftly maneuver them into a cloth bag. I really didn’t require more adrenaline peaks during the day after doing all this at night.

It was time for me to get a little space and solitude and find somewhere nice to have a wash and rid myself of the dirt and sweat. A brief hiatus from the nocturnal work was in order to re-energize. A wide bottomed, shallow creek flowed along one border of the campsite and out into the savanna woodland into no man’s land. Perfect. Padding away from the others with my favorite purple thongs (AKA flip-flops) on my feet towards the creek, I envisaged some quiet secluded pool I would soak in. Soak up the sun a bit and relax I thought. Lie back lazily on the sand somewhere. No one around to disturb me I thought……. Wrong.

So here I was after waking up in the morning, la de la de la, walking down the sandy creek bed, relaxing more and more by the minute, inhaling the damp earthy loam scent of the creek and enjoying the sun’s warmth through my shirt and on the back of my legs. The flat creek channel was around five meters across with steep dirt banks up to about three meters high. I rounded a bend and for a time kept walking, watching where I was placing my feet and zoning out rather than my usual thing of taking in everything around me as I went.

Looking up, my eyes instantly locked onto the enormous eyes of a very large and powerful looking young buffalo bull. Only about five meters directly in front of me, completely barring my path, he stood square and rigid. Attached to his head were two very large buffalo horns. His expression was a mixture of annoyance and fear. Me in that moment? Just terrified. Wild buffalo kill more humans in Africa than any other creature. This was not Africa but nonetheless this was a large wild feral buffalo. His eyes seemed enormous and we both stood still like matching marble statues facing each other. We had a standoff. I then ever so slowly turned my head to scope the banks for trees. All that was near was a spindly dead trunk all of about three meters high, and useless to me for escaping up.

I turned back to look at the beast and he grunted something to himself and started actually pawing the ground like he thought he was El bloody Toro straight out of Spain!

I remember thinking how odd it was that he used his left hoof to paw the ground, not his right leg and that he must be in that perhaps 7% rare cohort of buffalo that are left-handed. Not a particularly useful thought. Sensing that attempting a runner back up the creek bed would probably mean I’d lose this particular bout in a spectacularly painful way, I had to think quickly. Yelling might work but it was impossible to make myself look big. I dared not hold out my beach towel to look bigger or flap it at him to try and scare him in case he decided it is close enough to looking like the proverbial red rag, even though it wasn’t red, and charge at me. Thinking fast, I then remembered how hunters shot wild buffalo in the region and maybe the sound of a gunshot might scare him witless. Instantly I thought of my trusty old cheap purple thongs. Ever so slowly I let bag and towel slide down to rest at my feet while I simultaneously unhooked each thong from my toes. As I did this El Toro pawed again trying and succeeding in looking tough. He even lowered his monstrous head, eyes not wavering a millimeter from mine.

My eyes locked and loaded on his, I drew my arms slowly apart and slapped the rubber soles together hard and BANG! Wow! A sharp and loud gunshot sound came out!

Hesitation shuddered through El Toro and I mimicked the steady time frame between shots from a rifle and let fly with another loud shot. This was too much for ET and he turned and clambered up the bank away from me, his unappealing droopy ball sacks swaying from side to side before he turned around to look at me and bloody stare some more. I thought we were finished staring so I widened my stance, rose my torso and shoulders up and out, opened my eyes wide into a blaring angry glare and yelled loud and deep at him while letting rip another cartridge of thong slapping. He finally turned away from me and trotted off into the scrub. El Toro was not so brave after all. Bravo! I crept up the bank to make sure he kept going and watched him shrink into the distance.

So so relieved, I picked up my stuff and set off walking but back the other way. I was too shaken to keep venturing into unknown buffalo filled territory, so I backtracked to a less than ideal part of the creek with a section where I could bath. It had a nice long stretch so that I could scan for any more intruding bulls wanting their go at a stoush with me. My ‘gun’ thongs were within arm’s reach. After my bath, I lay back on the sand and reflected on how I had somehow survived three direct active threats on my life by three very different types of animal, a Great White Shark, an Eastern Brown Snake and now a wild buffalo bull. I thought about how one thing I am quite happy about is my ability to actually act under acute stress. Solve the puzzle and move.

I thought too how although I wouldn’t volunteer for these scary animal encounters, the floaty and overwhelming sensation of euphoria sparked from these life death events is enjoyable and that vivid base knowledge of really being alive in this world is with me until I die.

***     *****     ***

You can read more stories in my book now published on Amazon WILD – Life Death Encounters with Wild Animals

such as a Great White Shark, horsessnakeswhalesrock possumsbull buffalo and spiders

And you can read stories on how I Source Strength

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john bennett
john bennett
July 2, 2018 3:45 pm

Very clever (radio-tracking receiver) and brave – El bloody Toro made me laugh aloud

What amazing bush experiences of wildness you have had – so exceedingly rare – I am jealous. I also learnt that you need agility to catch Rock Possums, so that’s one career lost to me.

Thanks for sharing